| A CULINARY TOUR DE FORCE!
Those who enjoy watching
Rick Bayless
on his PBS TV series
One Plate at a Time need little introduction to his
passionate search for authentic and innovative Mexican cuisine, from
country and regional specialties to the latest Mexican continental
creations. Those who are not familiar with the show, or with
the sheer diversity of Mexico's authentic cuisines, are in for a real
surprise.
How? Try an exquisite Codornices Encacahuatados, a
succulent grilled quail with a cool and spicy salsa
of roasted peanuts, garlic and chiles de arbol - served with smoky,
grilled Quelites - Mexican greens (tasted like watercress
but they were cooked down to far to be sure). The quail simply melts
on the lips and the salsa and greens were heavenly!
Vegetarians will enjoy Calabacitas Rellenas, organic stuffed
patty pan squash stuffed with a mushroom laced rice and
jack cheese, drizzled with a Salsa Verde and
accompanied by tasty Pan-seared Purslane (all the more
reason for me to dedicate a portion of my invasive and recurrent crop of
this common garden weed to table use - I have at least 3 different races
of this persistent plant in various parts of my half acre garden!).
Do you prefer seafood? I savored an outstanding
Callos de Hacha Motueleńos,
achiote-marinated grilled sea scallops accompanied by black beans,
a roasted tomato sauce and fire-roasted torpedo onions.
It was filling and delicate - even the black beans - which if
overdone can be heavy or pasty, but they weren't.
Keep in mind that the menu at Frontera changes frequently, and is based
upon the availability of seasonal, sustainably raised vegetables, meat and
poultry as well as fish from sustainable fisheries. I actually took
the opportunity to sample two menus, on one visit I sampled the dinner
menu, eaten in the dining room (reservations highly recommended!!!) and
one visit was as a walk-in to the bar, where I sampled some of the brunch
offerings.
The Frontera dining room is sparsely but tastefully
decorated, with high black ceilings, black fixtures, mostly open walls,
good lighting and a fairly clear view
of the kitchen galley. Adjacent to the entrance is an art gallery
dedicated to Mexican fine photography and other artwork, and additional
pieces populate the walls of the bar and dining room.
Problematic though are the acoustics - echoes
reverberate throughout the entire dining room and, combined with the
echoing music (which one of my Mexican dining companions pointed out, at
least on that particular night, was heavily Afro-Cuban) make
it nearly impossible to hear across the table much less
communicate with the service staff. While taking our order, the
server, tall, towering well above the table, and with a slight accent,
spoke well over the heads of all who were sitting there - I could somehow visualize his
words arcing over the guests at the table behind us, slamming
against the wall, and then bouncing off to join the blurring cacophony of
incessant noise in the room. Patrons talk even louder because of all
this din, and one review of Frontera I had read previously suggested
bringing earplugs!!! I echo (pun intended) this
sentiment!!! Oh, and be sure to guard your food!
While I was snapping a couple of photos of my companions, there were 6 of
us in all, the same server had apparently swooped down from above
and dispatched my plate - before I was finished - while I
was peering though the viewfinder - without asking, and in utter disregard
of the fact that I was occupied behind a camera!!! I was extremely angry to say the
least, but it was my birthday, so I decided to put a lid on it, though it
was impossible to ignore. Back to the food. That night the guacamole was
overbearingly salty, though the chips were barely salted at all, so in
effect they balanced out (after I got past the salty surprise). On
my second visit, I tried the guacamole again and it was much better - must
have been a bad batch the first time around. Still, the variance was
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an unexpected take on a couple of
South-of-the-Border staples, particularly from a kitchen the caliber
of Frontera's. The table
salsas, red and green, are both delicious, but served in
miniscule quantities in small rectangular plates which make scooping
next to impossible (tilt them a bit and use a spoon - it's easier - and
then ask for more). Again, odd, and somewhat unexpected (in other
words, if artful presentation interferes with eating logistics, it should
be clearly reconsidered).
From the brunch menu I tried the Entremés
Surtido, an appetizer platter consisting of Tostadas de
Seviche (a sprightly lime and shrimp blend), Chicken
Taquitos, Jicama Salad and Guacamole. I WANTED TO LICK MY PLATE
BUT THOUGHT BETTER ABOUT MY PUBLIC MANNERS!!!
Then, WHILE I
WAS STILL DELIRIOUS FROM MY APPETIZER,
I feasted on the Tacos al Carbón
with wood grilled Amish Country Duck marinated in Red
Chile Adobo. A big fan of birds En Adobo
(my most recent Thanksgiving turkey in a home grown Poblano and
Serrano Adobo was my best ever), I was not disappointed - the Duck
was cooked medium, incredibly tender, and nearly brought me to
TEARS!!!
I also tried the same tacos with Naturally
Raised Skirt Steak - rich and delicious, and also with Red-chile
marinated Pork enhanced with pineapple, bacon and red onions.
Very nice indeed! In the Enchiladas
de Peccadillo, Frontera is not shy about the chocolate in the
Mole; though traditional in this dark sauce of Ancho chiles, the chocolate
is often nearly invisible in the creation of a more timid eatery. - but
not here at Frontera. Peanuts and raisins also add an outstanding
touch to the spicily seasoned, delicately shredded pork.
The dessert of Flán
was a less dense variation on the traditional caramelized custard,
garnished with sprigs of fresh mint and sauced with a mélange of
pomegranate and raspberry; it was delicious, light and fluffy, yet still
creamy and smooth - possibly with a hint of orange as well. The
coffee is also quite good, a deep rich roast that is not too dark.
Again, since the menu selections vary widely, check
out the latest menus on line. Many items are also available
à la cârte.
On the second visit, the lunch service at the bar
was quick, and attentive as can be considering the sheer volume of patrons
at hand. Though noisier yet (hey, it's a BAR!), everything was well
timed, and no one took away my plate too soon!
All in all, the visitor to Frontera Grill
will be transported into a special enclave where the products of artisanal
farming are orchestrated into a true culinary kaleidoscope with a
great deal of love and tradition. Highly recommended!
Lunch:
11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday to Friday; 10:30 to 2:30 (Saturday
brunch).
Dinner:
5:20 to 10 p.m. Tuesday; 5 to 10 p.m. Wednesday and
Thursday; 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Reservations taken
only for parties of 5–10.
- Entrees range from $11.95 on up
- Appetizers from $6.95
- Soups, Sides, Desserts and Extras Vary
- Beer, Wine and House Drinks
- Accepts All Major Credit Cards
- Seating is open and spacing is
generous.
- Noise, especially in the dining room,
can be nearly unbearable
- Frontera is an extremely popular and
sought after destination - be prepared to wait up to 2 hours for the
dining room if you have not secured a reservation in advance.
- Tunes are generally Latin, of mixed
geo-ethnicity
- Young kids may enjoy the food, but
use your head and spring for a sitter - they'll just ADD TO THE
COMMOTION!
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